Thursday, September 10, 2009
Summer isn't officially over for another couple weeks, but with all the kids back in school and the tourists making themselves scarce, we've got the beaches to ourselves again right at the beginning of the best time of year around here. The water is still relatively warm and there are still south swells rolling through, with an occasional north swell to keep things interesting.
Our town is considered one of the top ten surfing towns in the world and a number of accomplished surfers have come from here. To my mind, my neighbor Kevin is one of the best ever. He's a switch foot surfer, which means he can stand either way on his board and surf facing the wave either right or left. That's the equivalent of a major league pitcher being able to throw equally with either arm, or Tiger Woods being able to swing his club from either side. Kevin makes all of his own equipment from start to finish and isn't afraid to try something new. The first year he tried competitive paddling, he earned a spot on the U.S. team sent to the world championship in Australia.
Happily, one of the most talented surfers is also one of the nicest guys, and as delightful a neighbor as one could have. That's him above, turning on a dime and drawing deep lines as he enjoys some uncrowded end of summer waves.