Thursday, September 10, 2009

Wave Master



Summer isn't officially over for another couple weeks, but with all the kids back in school and the tourists making themselves scarce, we've got the beaches to ourselves again right at the beginning of the best time of year around here. The water is still relatively warm and there are still south swells rolling through, with an occasional north swell to keep things interesting.

Our town is considered one of the top ten surfing towns in the world and a number of accomplished surfers have come from here. To my mind, my neighbor Kevin is one of the best ever. He's a switch foot surfer, which means he can stand either way on his board and surf facing the wave either right or left. That's the equivalent of a major league pitcher being able to throw equally with either arm, or Tiger Woods being able to swing his club from either side. Kevin makes all of his own equipment from start to finish and isn't afraid to try something new. The first year he tried competitive paddling, he earned a spot on the U.S. team sent to the world championship in Australia.

Happily, one of the most talented surfers is also one of the nicest guys, and as delightful a neighbor as one could have. That's him above, turning on a dime and drawing deep lines as he enjoys some uncrowded end of summer waves.

3 comments:

The Weaver of Grass said...

What a wonderful feeling surfing well must give him.

Tracy said...

That is a beautiful shot, Golden West! Such power, dynamics and sheer fun! I've never surfed before... and I'm not a strong swimmer... But to ride a wave like that must be bliss! Happy Day :o) ((HUGS))

Delwyn said...

Hello Daughter of GW

My town is one of the best surf spots in Au, in fact it was the draw of the surfing myth that dragged us from NZ to Au in 1978 and conspired to make us shift countries and lifestyles - for the better...

My Beloved,my boys and one daughter are all avid surfers...

Happy days