Monday, July 13, 2009
Surfing Like A Bird Sings
In surfing magazines, the majority of people featured in the pictures aren't the best surfers, they're the surfers who are sponsored by the people who have something to sell. Namely, the people who buy advertising in said magazines. Consequently, on any given day, on many California beaches, you'll see unheralded surfers who surf circles around the chosen few.
Case in point: my neighbor, Kevin. It's a rare day when he is not the best guy in the water, regardless of where he surfs or what the conditions are. He designs and builds the boards he rides - long boards, shortboards, paddle boards, stand up paddle boards, paipos - he's a master of them all. Kevin surfs like a bird sings - joyfully, naturally and with an enthusiasm that's positively infectious.
My daughter took these pictures of Kevin yesterday afternoon, making the most of small, glassy, summertime conditions on a sparkling California Sunday.