Monday, September 22, 2008

The First Day Of Autumn

Getting a new surfboard can make you feel like it's Christmas in September. This board was custom made for my daughter and is so new, it hasn't been waxed yet. Surfboard technology has been changing by leaps and bounds and this board is a prime example. It's made of expanded polystyrene (the same thing styrofoam cups are made of), epoxy, and some cool, retro chiffon fabric. It's 5'11", weighs under five pounds and is a high-performance shortboard, designed for chest-high to overhead waves.

Our town is considered one of the top ten surfing areas in the world, and as the south swells of late spring and summer give way to the stronger north swells of autumn and winter, some of the best surf of the year is on the horizon. Finding the best waves used to mean having the ability to judge how the wind, tide and swell would affect a particular surf spot. Nowadays there are surf cams up and down the coasts, all around the world and watching a live shot of a particular spot is just a mouse click away.

Happily, at this time of year, it's still possible to catch your favorite spot uncrowded, but for a few familiar faces, with plenty of waves to go around.

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